One version of the sandwich, the "Soft-Shell Crab Po'Boy," at Miss Shirley's Cafe in Annapolis. (Photo: Sarah Tincher)
ANNAPOLIS (March 27, 2014)—From the official state bird, the Baltimore Oriole, to the official state dessert, the Smith Island Cake, Maryland has just about every state symbol covered. But that’s not enough for some lawmakers who — for the second year in a row — are trying to add one more “official” to the pile: a state sandwich.
A proposal to make the soft-shell crab sandwich the state’s official sandwich passed in the Senate but went stale in the House during the 2013 session. However, advocates have put it back on the menu — it’s being debated again this year in both chambers.
A soft-shell crab is simply a crab which has molted its shell, thus making it soft. The first full moon in May traditionally marks the beginning of the season for the delicacy, which is fried whole and stuck between two pieces of bread — complete with the legs sticking out the sides.
At Miss Shirley’s Cafe in Annapolis, the crabs are dipped in buttermilk and a cornmeal concoction before making their way to the fryer.
While some Marylanders argue that the crabcake sandwich should have been chosen over the soft crab, bill sponsor Sen. Richard Colburn, R-Dorchester, thinks the unique soft-shell crab sandwich still has a leg — or eight — to stand on.
“You never ever be certain whether the crab in [the crabcake] sandwich is from Maryland,” Colburn said. “The soft crab is unique, it’s coming from the Chesapeake Bay. Soft crab sandwich is a unique delicacy and it’s the only crab you can eat with legs sticking out of the bread.”
Some people, however, say the state has better sandwiches to go alongside the official state drink: milk.
Shannon Westlund, owner of Ocean City’s Mug and Mallet restaurant, said her vote would have doubtlessly been for a crabcake sandwich over the soft-shell crab — although she acknowledged that taking a crack at eating a whole soft crab is a little more difficult for out-of-state beach visitors than it is for Free State natives born with Old Bay in their veins.
“Tourists aren’t going to eat a soft-shell sandwich because it’s a little intimidating,” Westlund said. “But everyone will try a crabcake sandwich … I don’t understand why that wasn’t the top priority.”
The sandwich debate is still heating up, but almost every Marylander can agree that as far as an official Maryland sandwich is concerned, some form of the blue crab — which is already the state’s official crustacean — is a must.
Dick Franyo, owner of Annapolis’ Boatyard Bar and Grill, said as long as there’s blue crab in it, he’s fine either way.
“We sell more crabcakes because crabcakes are probably more widely palatable [and] more user-friendly. … But for the aficionado who wants the real deal, they’ll want the soft crab,” Franyo said.
Jen McIllwain, Miss Shirley’s spokeswoman, said most people are excited for the soft-shell crab sandwich to reappear on the menu during the season.
“People look forward to it coming back on the menu during spring and summer,” McIllwain said. “We have less people who are scared of it and more looking forward to it.”
The bill has already been heard in Senate and House committees. No further action has been taken, but Colburn is still hopeful that the bill will pass and be served up to the governor for his signature.